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Image Compressor

Make photos and screenshots smaller for email and the web, and see the before-and-after size on every file.

Runs entirely in your browser. Nothing you enter is uploaded or stored.

Add images to compressDrop JPG, PNG or WebP files here, or click to browse. They compress as soon as you drop them: no button needed.

Settings

Original format · Balanced 80% · Original size

Also try:PNG to JPG ConverterWebP to JPG ConverterPlaceholder Image Generator

How to use the Image Compressor

  1. 1Drop your JPG, PNG or WebP images onto the box, or click it to browse. Add as many as you like.
  2. 2Choose whether each picture keeps its own format, or whether everything is saved as WebP or JPG.
  3. 3Lower the quality, and pick a smaller "longest side" if you like, until the size shown on each row looks right.
  4. 4Check the thumbnail, then press Download on the files you want, or Download all (ZIP) for the whole batch. They're saved with "-compressed" added to the name.

Two ways to make an image smaller

An image file is big for one of two reasons: it has a lot of pixels, or it stores a lot of detail for each pixel. This tool works on both. Quality decides how much fine detail is thrown away: small differences in colour and texture that the eye barely registers. Longest side decides how many pixels the picture has: a 4000-pixel-wide photo redrawn at 1920 pixels contains a fraction of the data, and on most screens looks just as sharp, because a screen can only show so many pixels anyway. Together they explain most of the savings you’ll see. Photos straight from a phone are the classic case: far more pixels than a web page or an email will ever display.

Picking settings for the job

There isn’t one right answer, because the right size depends on where the image is going.

  • Email attachment: about 1600 px on the longest side and 75–80% quality is small enough for almost any mail limit and still looks good on screen.
  • Website or blog: 1920 px covers a full-width image on most displays. Quality between 75% and 85% is a good range; check the thumbnail before you download.
  • Thumbnails and previews: 1024 px or less. These are shown small, so the extra pixels are wasted.
  • Printing or archiving: don’t shrink it. Keep the original size and 90% quality or higher, or keep the original file and compress only copies.

JPG, PNG or WebP: what each can do

JPG is built for photographs and gives you a quality dial: the format where compression tends to give the biggest, most predictable savings. WebP does the same job and usually produces a smaller file at similar quality, and it can keep transparency, but some older software can’t open it (the WebP to JPG converter on this site exists for exactly that problem). PNG is lossless, which is why the quality slider doesn’t affect it: it’s the right format for logos, icons and crisp screenshots, and it rarely gets smaller by re-saving. When a PNG needs to shrink, reduce its longest side, or save it as WebP or JPG instead.

What compressing costs you

Lossy compression is a trade: the file gets smaller and some detail is gone for good. At sensible settings on photographs the loss is very hard to see, but it’s real, and it accumulates: compressing an already-compressed image again makes it slightly worse each time. Work from your original whenever you can, choose your settings once, and keep the untouched file somewhere safe. The compressed copy also drops information stored inside the original, such as the camera model and where and when the photo was taken. If that’s a reason to compress (say, before posting a picture publicly) it’s a bonus. If you need it, keep the original.

Compressed on your device

Your images never leave your browser. The tool reads each file, redraws it at the size you chose, and saves it again at the quality you set, all inside this tab: no upload, no queue, and nothing stored once you close it. That also makes it quick with a batch: every picture appears with its own before-and-after size, and you download only the ones you want.

Questions

How much smaller will my images get?
It depends entirely on the picture. A photo straight off a phone or camera is usually the biggest win: it's often far larger than any screen needs, so reducing the quality and the dimensions together can cut it to a small fraction. An image that's already been optimised for the web has little left to give, and may not shrink at all. Every row shows the exact before-and-after size, so there's nothing to guess.
What's the difference between the quality setting and the longest side?
They shrink the file in different ways. Quality controls how much fine detail is thrown away in each part of the picture. Longest side controls how many pixels there are at all: set to 1920 px, a 4000 px photo is redrawn at less than half the width, which is less than a quarter of the pixels. For photos going on a screen, reducing the dimensions is usually the bigger saving, and the two work well together.
What settings should I use?
For email, around 1600 px and 75–80% quality. For a website, 1920 px at 75–85%, or WebP if you're sure everything that will open it supports it. For small thumbnails, 1024 px or less. For anything you plan to print, leave the size at the original and keep quality at 90% or above. Because the sizes update as you change the settings, you can adjust until the numbers suit.
Why didn't my PNG get smaller, or why did it get bigger?
PNG is a lossless format: it stores every pixel exactly, so there's no quality setting to lower, and re-saving it here can produce a file the same size or a little larger. To make a PNG meaningfully smaller you have two options: reduce its longest side, or save it as WebP or JPG. WebP keeps transparency; JPG doesn't, so you'd choose a colour to fill it with.
Will the picture still be the right way up?
Yes. Photos taken with the phone turned sideways are stored with a note saying how to rotate them for display. The tool applies that rotation to the pixels themselves before saving, so the compressed picture comes out upright rather than lying on its side.
Does compressing remove the camera details and location?
Yes. The picture is redrawn into a brand-new file, so information stored alongside it in the original (camera model, date, and any GPS location) isn't copied over. That's useful before sharing a photo publicly. It also means the compressed copy no longer says when or where it was taken, so keep the original if you need that record.
Can I compress the same image again to make it smaller still?
You can, but it isn't a good idea. Every lossy save throws away a little more detail, and the losses stack up. It's better to go back to the original and choose the settings you want in one pass.
Is my image uploaded anywhere?
No. The compression happens inside this browser tab using your device's own memory. Nothing is sent to a server, logged, or stored, and closing the tab clears everything.